Je remets son article ici, sous réserve de vérification, merci
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Substituting Compatible Sterling Parts
Last updated August 8, 2001
I put this together because of the difficulty in obtaining replacement parts for the Sterling pump. Since Smart Parts began carrying Sterling parts, this has become less of a problem for Sterling owners in U.S. and Canada. But finding parts can still be frustrating. Part substitutes are often easier to get and can save you money, too. If anyone can suggest any other parts substitutions, please let me know.
Note:
Sterling parts made by Arrow Precision are compatible on all Sterling models (Bronze, Silver, STP, or STP Turbo; Proline or Arrow Precision).
An original Sterling Service Kit from Proline U.K.
(Sorry, I don't know what an Arrow Precision parts kit looks like because I haven't ordered one yet.)
Exhaust Valve
(consists of cup seal and valve stem; also known simply as the valve)
My broken original Sterling exhaust valve below a VM-68 exhaust valve.
(Older stock WGP Autococker exhaust valves are nearly identical to VM-68 exhaust valves.) A modern stock WGP Autococker exhaust valve.
(Mitch Huffington's picture used without authorization. My apologies to Mitch - I'll replace the pic when I can.)
Stock Autococker, VM-68, and Typhoon exhaust valves work fine in the Sterling.
I've been using a VM-68 exhaust valve in my STP ever since my original cup seal broke at Skyball 2000. The only real difference I've noticed is that my original Sterling valve stem is a bit shorter than the VM-68 valve stem. A longer valve stem results in a longer "dwell" time when shooting, which results in a higher shooting velocity.
Since stock Autococker valves work in Sterlings, so do many aftermarket Autococker valves. Check the Parts Upgrades section for more efficient exhaust valves.
Bob Lanstrum (#023) tells me that the Inferno semi-auto exhaust valve works fine in the Sterling. Thanks Bob!
Valve stems on many stacked open-bolt blowback semi-autos are flattened lengthwise on at least one side for increased gas flow to recock the hammer (i.e., blowback action). This is why these valve stems may not be good substitutes for the Sterling valve stem. I need to check into this. I also need to check if the thread pitch on cupseals for these blowbacks is the same as the thread pitch on the Autococker valve stem.
Valve Guide
(also known as the valve seat or the valve [It can be confusing -Lea])
Sorry, I don't know of any substitute valve guides. I was previously mistaken - the Autococker valve guide is NOT compatible. (The stock AC valve guide is smaller and unthreaded.)
Bolt 'O' rings
My stock bolt uses three 'o' rings. The size is 7/16" inner diameter x 5/8" outer diameter x 3/32" width. Check out a hardware or plumbing store. In Toronto, Canada, I visit stores such as Home Depot, Revy, and Canadian Tire.
Valve 'O' rings
I've got three equal-sized 'o' rings on my valve guide. Their size is 1/2" inner diameter x 5/8" outer diameter x 1/16" width. Just slightly smaller than a CO^2 tank 'o' ring. Again, search for replacements in hardware and plumbing stores.
Main Spring
(also known as the hammer spring)
Alexander Brings (#004) and Bob Lanstrum (#023) gave me the tip that Spyder springs can be cut to fit. They may be a bit heavier (and thus increase your velocity). Just change your valve spring or, if you have one, adjust your regulator. Note that using an excessively heavy main spring will put more wear on your exhaust valve (and can cause it to break sooner).
Valve Spring
Alexander Brings (#004) informs me that Nelson valve springs work fine. Thanks again, Alexander!
PGP and Typhoon valve springs are approx. 1 cm too short.
Spacer Seal
Jeffrey Donaldson (#012) has successfully used silastic sealant instead of a spacer seal:
"Silastic sealant works fine till you start taking the grip off too much then it starts to wear a bit, but who cares when it's so cheap and works well? Just put a small bead of silastic onto the spacer bar about the same width but a little thicker than the original seal. You DON'T want to put too much or you'll have a hard time trying to put the grip assembly back together."
Thanks for the tip, Jeffrey!
Bob Lanstrum (#023) says that an o-ring can be used instead, and suggests using rubber cement to hold the seal in place. Thanks Bob!
Sure beats my untested idea of cutting rubber grommets to fit or punching out discs with a hand-held looseleaf paper punch on a thin sheet of rubber from the hardware / home renovation store.
Field Strip Thumb Screws
Bob Lanstrum (#023) has found that aftermarket Spyder field strip thumb screws (e.g., KAPP) work fine with the Sterling. Thanks again Bob!
Barrel
Sterling barrels fit all Sterling models and versions (Proline or Arrow Precision). Sterling pump and Sovereign barrels are not interchangeable. Glenn Palmer (of Palmer's Pursuit Shop, CA, U.S.A.) told me that the Sterling's barrel threads are metric.
Alexander Brings (#004) observed:
"A funny thing about the barrels, the Sterling barrels fit in Angels and [Brass Eagle] Raptors. However it is not vice versa because the outer diameter of Angel barrels are just slightly too big to fit in the Sterling receiver, but I havn't tried using Raptor barrels in my Sterling yet."
Bob Lanstrum (#023) in a Paintball Dojo discussion thread also noted that Brass Eagle Raptor barrels and CCI Phantom barrels have the same threading as Sterling barrels. Earlier this year, Bob was trying to modify a Smart Parts Freak adaptor (with BE Raptor threads) to fit the Sterling. He was successful, but I need to find out if the results were worth the effort.
NOTE: Yankee Workshop wrote in the SterlingOG forum that CCI Phantom barrels do NOT fit Sterlings. He also included a picture of the two barrel types. They look very different. So it may not be a good idea to buy a Phantom barrel to use in your Sterling.
I've also tried looking for barrel adapters for the Sterling (Lapco doesn't make them). Chipley Custom Machine can make barrel adapters for you but you'll need to send in your Sterling and barrels. They can also build adapters with different bore sizes. Check out the Barrels info in the upgrades section.
Ball Detente
Any Autococker ball detente (either ball&spring or wire nubbin style) should work fine. Factory stock Sterlings don't have ball detentes, so you'll need to get some machine work done to tap a threaded hole (and slot if you want a wire nubbin style detent) on the receiver for the ball detente.
On the Sterling, a ball detente will help prevent ball roll out, but not accidental double feeding (two balls in the barrel) since the Sterling shoots from a closed bolt. A good paint to barrel match (using consistently sized and shaped paintballs) will also prevent ball roll out.
